The Grand Vision - Conceptualizing Your Pixel Wall Art

The allure of pixel art lies in its simplicity and the nostalgia it evokes. It is a digital art form where images are created and edited at the pixel level. The term pixel art was first published by Adele Goldberg and Robert Flegal of Xerox PARC in 1982, though the concept had been around for at least 10 years prior. Think of the classic video games of the 8-bit and 16-bit eras; the characters and worlds were all built from these tiny squares of color. This art form, born from the constraints of early computing, has a unique charm that translates beautifully into the physical world through projects like the one we are about to embark on. Creating your own wooden pixel art is a rewarding process that combines digital design with traditional woodworking. It allows you to bring a piece of digital history into your home in a tangible and textured way. This series will guide you through every step of the process, from the initial spark of an idea to the final finishing touches. We will delve deep into the techniques and provide you with the knowledge to create a stunning piece of wall art that is uniquely yours.

Gathering Your Arsenal - Tools and Materials

Before we can begin to create, we must first gather our tools and materials. The beauty of this project is in its accessibility; you do not need a fully equipped professional workshop to achieve fantastic results. At its core, this project requires wood, something to cut it with, and something to color it with. However, to truly replicate the piece described, a few specific items will make the process smoother and the outcome more professional. A table saw is highly recommended for making the precise, repetitive cuts required for the pixels. If a table saw is not available, a miter saw or even a hand saw with a miter box can be used, though it will require more patience and skill to achieve consistent results. For the pixels themselves, 9mm plywood offers a good thickness and a visible grain that adds character. A thinner 3mm sheet of plywood will serve as the canvas for our artwork. You will also need wood glue, various stains and paints to bring your design to life, sandpaper for smoothing the edges, and some 12mm plywood for the frame. A ruler, pencil, and clamps are also essential for the layout and assembly stages.

The Spark of Inspiration - Planning Your Design

Every great project begins with a great idea. The design phase is arguably the most creative part of this entire process. You have a blank canvas of 20x20 pixels, which gives you 400 squares to play with. The possibilities are endless. You can recreate a favorite character from a classic video game, design a piece of abstract art, or even create a pixelated version of a photograph. To help visualize your design, you can use digital tools like Photoshop, GIMP, or even online pixel art editors. These programs allow you to easily experiment with colors and layouts before you commit to cutting any wood. Create a 20x20 pixel canvas and use the pencil tool to click in your design, square by square. This digital blueprint will be your guide throughout the project. It will also help you determine the exact number of pixels of each color you will need, which is crucial for the next steps of material preparation. Take your time during this stage, try out different ideas, and do not be afraid to experiment. The more thought you put into your design now, the more satisfying the final result will be.

The Blueprint - From Pixels to Plywood

Once your design is finalized, it is time to translate it from the screen to the physical world. This involves some simple calculations to ensure everything fits together perfectly. The example piece is approximately 600mm square, with a 50mm border. This leaves a 500mm by 500mm area for the pixels themselves. With a 20x20 grid, this means each pixel will be 25mm square. It is important to do these calculations before you start cutting. Decide on the final size of your artwork first, then determine the size of your border. Subtract the border from the total dimensions to find the area for your pixels. Then, divide that area by the number of pixels in your grid to find the size of each individual square. Remember to account for the saw blade's kerf (the width of the cut) when you are planning your cuts. A small discrepancy in your measurements can add up over 20 pixels, so precision is key. Double-check your math before you proceed to the workshop. This careful planning will save you from frustration and wasted materials down the line.

Safety First - A Woodworker's Mantra

Working with tools, especially power tools like a table saw, requires a commitment to safety. Before you even plug in the saw, make sure you are wearing appropriate safety gear. Safety glasses are non-negotiable to protect your eyes from sawdust and debris. Hearing protection is also a good idea, as table saws can be incredibly loud. Avoid wearing loose clothing, jewelry, or anything that could get caught in the blade. Always be aware of where your hands are in relation to the blade and use push sticks for smaller pieces. Make sure your workspace is clean and well-lit to avoid any accidents. Read the manual for your table saw and familiarize yourself with all of its features, including the safety features like the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls. If you are new to woodworking, it is a good idea to watch some videos on table saw safety or even take a class. Remember, a successful project is a project that is completed without any injuries. Taking a few extra moments to think about safety can make all the difference.

Choosing Your Canvas - The World of Plywood

Plywood is an engineered wood product made from thin layers, or "plies," of wood veneer that are glued together with adjacent layers having their wood grain rotated up to 90 degrees to one another. This construction gives it strength and stability, making it an excellent choice for this project. When you are at the lumberyard, you will find a variety of plywood options. For the pixels, a 9mm birch plywood is a great choice as it has a fine, even grain that takes stain well. Look for a sheet that is flat and has a clean, unblemished face. Take your time to inspect the sheets and avoid any that are warped, bowed, or have significant voids or knots. For the backer board, or "canvas," a 3mm sheet of plywood is sufficient. Its main purpose is to provide a stable base for the pixels, so the quality of the face veneer is less critical, but it should still be flat. The frame can be made from a slightly thicker 12mm plywood to give it a more substantial feel. The choice of wood will have a significant impact on the final look of your artwork, so choose wisely.

A Symphony of Color - Stains, Paints, and Washes

The colors you choose will bring your pixel art to life. You have a few options for adding color to your wooden squares: stain, paint, or a paint wash. Wood stain is designed to soak into the wood and color the grain itself. This is a great option if you want the natural texture of the wood to be a prominent feature of your artwork. Stains come in a variety of colors, from traditional wood tones to more vibrant hues. Paint, on the other hand, sits on top of the wood and creates an opaque, solid color. This is a good choice if you want bold, vibrant colors that are true to your digital design. A paint wash is a happy medium between the two. It is created by watering down paint, which allows it to act more like a stain. The color is less intense, and the wood grain is still visible. This is an excellent technique for achieving a more subtle, rustic look. When planning your colors, refer back to your digital design. Make a list of all the colors you need and how many pixels of each color are required. This will help you plan your staining and painting process efficiently.

The First Cut is the Deepest - Ripping the Plywood

With your materials gathered and your design in hand, it is time to make the first cuts. The process begins by ripping the 9mm plywood into strips on the table saw. The width of these strips will be the same as the final size of your pixels, which in our example is 25mm. Set the fence on your table saw to 25mm and make sure it is parallel to the blade. If you have a digital caliper, now is a good time to use it for a precise measurement. Run the plywood sheet through the saw to create your first strip. Repeat this process until you have enough strips to create all the pixels you need for your design. This is a repetitive process, so it is important to stay focused and maintain good safety practices. Use a push stick to guide the wood, especially when the piece gets smaller. The goal is to create strips that are consistent in width. Any variation will be noticeable when you assemble the final piece, so take your time and strive for accuracy. After cutting all the strips, it is a good idea to give them a light sanding to remove any rough edges from the saw.

The Art of the Pixel - From Strips to Squares

Welcome to the second part of our journey into creating stunning wooden pixel art. In the previous installment, we laid the groundwork for our project. We delved into the history and appeal of pixel art, gathered our tools and materials, and meticulously planned our design. We also covered the crucial first steps of preparing the wood, from selecting the right plywood to cutting it into precise strips. Now, we will move into the heart of the creation process. This is where our raw materials will begin to transform into the building blocks of our artwork. We will explore the techniques for coloring the wood, from applying stains and paints to creating custom washes. Then, we will tackle the task of cutting the colored strips into individual pixels, paying close attention to safety and precision. The steps in this part of the process are repetitive but essential. They require patience and a steady hand, but the reward of seeing a pile of colorful wooden squares, each one a potential part of your masterpiece, is incredibly satisfying. So, let's fire up the table saw, get our colors ready, and dive into the art of the pixel.

A Splash of Color - Applying Stains and Paints

Now that you have a collection of uniform wooden strips, it is time to infuse them with color. This is where your digital design will start to come to life. Before you begin, make sure your strips are clean and free of sawdust. A quick wipe with a tack cloth will do the trick. Lay out your strips on a covered work surface. If you are using stain, apply it with a clean cloth, rubbing it into the wood in the direction of the grain. The longer you leave the stain on before wiping off the excess, the darker the color will be. For paint, you can use a brush or a small roller to apply a smooth, even coat. If you are aiming for a solid color, you may need to apply a second coat after the first has dried. For a paint wash, mix your paint with water until you reach the desired consistency. The more water you add, the more transparent the color will be. Apply the wash with a brush, and like a stain, wipe away the excess. Remember to color the edges of the strips as well, as they will be visible in the final piece. Allow the strips to dry completely before moving on to the next step.

The Pixel Factory - Cutting Squares with a Sled

Once your colored strips are dry, it is time to cut them into individual pixels. This is another job for the table saw, but because the pieces are so small, we need to take extra safety precautions. The best way to do this is with a table saw sled. A sled is a platform that slides in the miter slots of your table saw and carries the workpiece past the blade. It allows you to make precise, repeatable crosscuts safely. You can build a simple sled from a piece of plywood or MDF. It should have a fence on the back edge that is perfectly square to the blade and a runner on the bottom that fits into the miter slot. To use the sled, you will place your colored strip against the fence and slide the sled forward to make the cut. To ensure all your pixels are the same size, you can add a stop block to your sled. The distance from the blade to the stop block will be the width of your pixel, in this case, 25mm. This setup will allow you to quickly and safely cut dozens of identical pixels.

Precision is Paramount - Tips for Accurate Cutting

When it comes to creating a grid of pixels, even small inaccuracies can be noticeable. Therefore, it is crucial to be as precise as possible when cutting your squares. Before you start cutting your colored strips, it is a good idea to do a test cut on a piece of scrap wood. Set up your sled and stop block, make a cut, and then measure the resulting piece with a digital caliper. Adjust the stop block as needed until you are consistently cutting pieces that are exactly 25mm square. Another tip for getting clean cuts is to use a sharp blade with a high tooth count. A dull blade is more likely to tear the wood fibers, resulting in a ragged edge. You can also apply a piece of painter's tape to the cut line before you make the cut. This can help to reduce tear-out, especially on plywood. Take your time with each cut and make sure the strip is held firmly against the fence of the sled. It is better to go slow and get it right than to rush and end up with a pile of unusable pixels.

The Zen of Repetition - Embracing the Process

Cutting hundreds of small squares can be a meditative process, but it can also be tedious. It is important to find a rhythm and embrace the repetition. Put on some music or a podcast and get into the zone. However, do not let the repetitive nature of the task lull you into a sense of complacency. Always remain focused on safety. Keep your hands away from the blade and use a push stick or hold-down clamp to secure the workpiece. It is also a good idea to work in batches. Cut all the pixels of one color, then move on to the next. This will help you stay organized and ensure you have the correct number of each color as specified in your design. As you work, you will see a colorful pile of pixels begin to grow. This visual progress can be very motivating and will help you push through the more monotonous parts of the process. Remember, every square you cut is one step closer to completing your masterpiece.

Quality Control - Inspecting Your Pixels

After all the cutting is done, you will have a mountain of colorful wooden squares. Before you move on to the next stage, it is important to do a quality control check. Inspect each pixel for any defects. Look for chips, tear-out, or any other imperfections that may have occurred during the cutting process. Set aside any pixels that are not up to your standards. It is always a good idea to cut a few extra pixels of each color, just in case. You also want to check for consistency in size. While your sled and stop block should ensure that all the pixels are the same size, it is worth double-checking a few from each batch with your calipers. This attention to detail at this stage will pay off in the long run. A set of uniform, high-quality pixels will make the assembly process much smoother and will result in a more professional-looking final product. Once you are happy with the quality of your pixels, you can organize them by color and get ready for the next exciting step: beveling.

To Bevel or Not to Bevel - Adding Another Dimension

The original creator of this project chose to bevel the edges of each pixel. This is an optional step, but it adds a significant amount of texture and depth to the final piece. A bevel is a sloped edge, and by beveling all four edges of each pixel, you create a subtle shadow line between them. This can make the artwork more dynamic and visually interesting. However, it is also a lot of extra work. With 400 pixels, and 4 edges per pixel, that is 1600 edges to bevel. You need to decide if the aesthetic benefit is worth the extra time and effort. If you are short on time or prefer a flatter, more graphic look, you can skip this step and still have a beautiful piece of art. If you are up for the challenge and want to add that extra level of craftsmanship to your project, then let's get ready to make another sled and do some beveling. The choice is yours, and there is no right or wrong answer. It all comes down to personal preference and the look you are trying to achieve.

The Third Dimension - Mastering the Bevel

We have reached the third installment of our comprehensive guide to creating wooden pixel art. In the previous parts, we have laid a strong foundation. We have gone from a digital design to a pile of precisely cut and colored wooden squares. Now, we are at a crossroads. We must decide whether to proceed with flat pixels or to take on the challenge of beveling. As we discussed, beveling is an optional step, but it is one that can elevate your artwork to a new level. It adds a subtle but impactful three-dimensional quality to the piece. This part of the series is dedicated to the art of the bevel. We will walk you through the process of creating a custom sled for your table saw that will allow you to safely and accurately bevel the tiny pixels. We will cover the setup, the technique, and the safety precautions you need to take. For those who do not have a table saw, we will also explore some alternative methods for achieving a similar effect. So, if you have decided to take the plunge and add that extra dimension to your pixel art, this chapter is for you. Let's get started on mastering the bevel.

The Beveling Sled - A Tool for Precision

To safely bevel the edges of hundreds of small pixels on a table saw, you will need to build another specialized sled. This sled will be designed to hold the small squares securely as you pass them over the angled blade. You can build the sled from a piece of plywood or MDF. It should have a runner on the bottom to fit in the miter slot of your saw. On top, you will need a way to hold the pixels in place. The original creator made a sled that could hold three squares at once, with a flap to hold them down. You can create a similar design by attaching small blocks of wood to the sled to create channels for the pixels to sit in. The key is to make sure the pixels are held securely and cannot shift during the cut. You will also need to attach a handle to the sled so you can push it through the saw without getting your hands anywhere near the blade. Take your time to build a solid and safe sled. It is an investment that will pay off in the quality and safety of your work.

Setting the Angle - The Perfect 45-Degree Cut

With your beveling sled built, the next step is to set up your table saw. The most common angle for a bevel is 45 degrees. Tilt the blade of your table saw to this angle. Use a combination square or a digital angle gauge to ensure the angle is precise. Once the blade is tilted, you will need to adjust the fence of your saw. The fence will act as a guide for your sled, so it needs to be parallel to the miter slot. You will also need to adjust the height of the blade. You want the blade to be high enough to cut through the edge of the pixel, but not so high that it is a safety hazard. A good rule of thumb is to have the blade just high enough to create the desired size of the bevel. Before you start cutting your actual pixels, it is essential to do a test cut on a scrap piece of wood that is the same thickness. This will allow you to fine-tune the position of your fence and the height of your blade until you are happy with the size and angle of the bevel.

The Beveling Dance - A Four-Step Process

Beveling each pixel is a four-step process. You will need to make a pass on the table saw for each of the four edges. Place a pixel (or multiple pixels, depending on the design of your sled) into the sled, making sure it is seated securely. Turn on the saw and smoothly push the sled through the blade. After the first cut, you will rotate the pixel 90 degrees and repeat the process. You will do this two more times until all four edges have been beveled. This is another repetitive task, so it is important to find a rhythm and stay focused. Pay attention to the orientation of the pixel as you rotate it to ensure you are cutting a new edge each time. It can be helpful to make a mark on one corner of the pixel to keep track of your rotations. As with the initial cutting of the squares, it is a good idea to work in batches. Bevel all the pixels of one color before moving on to the next. This will help you stay organized and ensure you do not miss any.

A Softer Touch - Sanding and Finishing the Bevels

After the beveling is complete, you will need to do some sanding to clean up the edges. The saw blade may have left some small burn marks or rough spots, especially on the delicate beveled edges. Use a fine-grit sandpaper, around 220 grit, to carefully sand each beveled edge. Be careful not to sand the face of the pixel, as this could damage the finish. The goal is to create a smooth, clean edge that will look great in the final assembly. This is also a good opportunity to do another quality control check. Inspect each pixel and set aside any that have been damaged during the beveling process. Once all the pixels have been sanded, you can wipe them down with a tack cloth to remove any dust. At this point, you can also apply a clear coat of varnish or polyurethane to the pixels to protect them and give them a nice sheen. This will also help to bring out the color and the grain of the wood. Make sure to apply the clear coat in a well-ventilated area and allow it to dry completely before you begin the assembly.

Alternative Beveling - No Table Saw, No Problem

If you do not have a table saw, do not despair. There are other ways to achieve a beveled edge, although they may require more time and effort. One option is to use a router with a chamfer bit. You would need to create a jig to hold the small pixels securely while you run the router around the edges. This can be a bit tricky, but with a well-designed jig, it is certainly possible. Another option is to use a belt or disc sander. You can create a simple jig to hold the pixel at a 45-degree angle to the sanding surface. This method gives you a lot of control, but it can be time-consuming. Finally, you can always go the old-fashioned route and bevel the edges by hand with a block plane or a sanding block. This is the most labor-intensive method, but it can also be the most rewarding. It allows you to have a direct connection with the wood and to create a truly handmade piece of art. No matter which method you choose, the key is to be consistent and to take your time.

The Grand Assembly - Bringing Your Vision to Life

We have arrived at the fourth part of our in-depth guide to creating your own wooden pixel art. The journey so far has been one of preparation and precision. We have transformed raw sheets of plywood into a collection of beautifully colored and meticulously shaped pixels. Now, the moment we have all been waiting for is finally here. It is time to assemble our masterpiece. This is where all the hard work and planning will come together, and we will begin to see our digital design take shape in the physical world. In this part of the series, we will focus on the assembly process. We will start by preparing our canvas, the 3mm plywood backer board. We will then discuss the importance of creating a grid to guide our placement of the pixels. We will also explore the different types of adhesives that can be used and the best techniques for applying them. The assembly stage requires a steady hand and a good eye for detail, but it is also one of the most exciting and rewarding parts of the project. So, let's clear our workbenches and get ready to bring our pixel art to life.

Preparing the Canvas - The Foundation of Your Artwork

Before we can start gluing down our pixels, we need to prepare the canvas. In our case, the canvas is a 600mm square piece of 3mm plywood. If you have not already done so, cut your plywood to the correct size. Use a table saw or a circular saw with a guide to get a straight, clean cut. Once the backer board is cut to size, it is a good idea to give it a light sanding to smooth out any rough edges. The next step is to create a grid on the surface of the plywood. This grid will be your guide for placing the pixels and will ensure that everything is straight and square. You can use a long ruler and a pencil to draw the grid. Since our pixels are 25mm square and we have a 50mm border, we will first mark out the border. Then, within that border, we will draw a 20x20 grid of 25mm squares. It is important to be as accurate as possible when drawing the grid. Any inaccuracies will be magnified as you start to lay down the pixels. Taking the time to create a precise grid is one of the most important steps in the assembly process.

The Glue-Up - Choosing the Right Adhesive

With your canvas prepared and your pixels ready to go, the next thing to consider is the glue. You will need a strong wood glue that will create a permanent bond between the pixels and the backer board. There are a few different options to choose from. A standard PVA wood glue, like Gorilla Wood Glue or Titebond, is a great choice for this project. These glues are strong, easy to work with, and clean up with water. They also have a relatively long open time, which means you will have a few minutes to adjust the position of the pixels before the glue starts to set. Another option is to use a CA glue, also known as super glue. CA glue creates a very strong bond almost instantly. This can be an advantage if you are confident in your placement, but it does not offer much room for error. For this project, a PVA wood glue is generally recommended, especially for beginners. It is a forgiving and reliable adhesive that will give you professional results.

The Art of Placement - A Pixel-Perfect Layout

Now for the fun part: laying out the design. Before you apply any glue, it is a good idea to do a dry run. Place your pixels on the grid on your backer board according to your design. This will allow you to see how everything fits together and to make any final adjustments. Once you are happy with the layout, you can begin the gluing process. A good technique is to work in small sections. Apply a thin, even layer of glue to a few squares on your grid, and then carefully place the corresponding pixels on top. Press each pixel down firmly to ensure a good bond. You can use a small brush to spread the glue, or you can apply it directly from the bottle. Try to avoid using too much glue, as it can squeeze out from between the pixels and create a mess. If you do get any squeeze-out, you can wipe it away with a damp cloth before it dries. Work your way across the canvas, one section at a time, until all the pixels are in place.

Keeping it Straight - Tips for a Square Assembly

One of the biggest challenges during the glue-up is keeping all the pixels perfectly aligned. Even with a grid, it is easy for things to start to go crooked. One trick is to use a large square or a straightedge to help you keep your lines straight. You can clamp the square to your canvas and use it as a guide to align the first row of pixels. Once the first row is in place, you can use it as a reference for the subsequent rows. Another tip is to not pack the pixels in too tightly. Leave a very small gap between each pixel. This will give you a little bit of wiggle room to adjust their position and will also help to create a nice, clean grid effect. As you work, step back from the piece every now and then to check your progress from a distance. This will help you to spot any areas that are starting to go out of alignment. Patience is key during this stage. Do not rush the process. Take your time to place each pixel carefully and accurately.

The Waiting Game - Clamping and Curing

Once all the pixels are glued in place, it is important to let the glue cure completely. To ensure a strong bond, it is a good idea to apply some pressure to the piece while the glue is drying. You can do this by placing a flat board on top of the pixels and then adding some weight, such as books or paint cans. Be careful not to put too much weight on the piece, as this could cause the pixels to shift. You can also use clamps to apply pressure. If you use clamps, be sure to use cauls, which are small pieces of scrap wood, to distribute the pressure evenly and to protect the surface of your artwork. Refer to the instructions on your wood glue bottle for the recommended clamping time. It is usually best to let the piece sit overnight to ensure the glue is fully cured. Resisting the temptation to move the piece before the glue is dry is crucial for the structural integrity of your artwork.

The Finishing Touches - Framing, Finishing, and a Flourish

Welcome to the final chapter of our epic journey into the world of wooden pixel art. We have come a long way, from a simple digital design to a fully assembled piece of wooden art. The hard work is mostly behind us, but there are still a few crucial steps to take before we can proudly hang our creation on the wall. This final part of the series is all about the finishing touches. These are the details that will take your project from a collection of wooden squares to a polished and professional piece of art. We will start by building a custom frame to give our artwork a clean and finished look. We will then discuss the process of painting and varnishing the piece to protect it and make the colors pop. Finally, we will cover the last little details, such as adding hanging hardware and giving your artwork a final clean and polish. We will also look at some ideas for future projects to keep your creative juices flowing. So, let's put the finishing touches on our masterpiece and get it ready for its grand debut.

The Frame Game - Building a Custom Border

A frame can make a huge difference in the overall presentation of your artwork. It provides a clean border, draws the viewer's eye to the piece, and gives it a more finished and professional look. For this project, we will be building a simple frame from 12mm plywood. The first step is to cut the plywood into strips. The original creator used 50mm wide strips, but you can adjust this measurement to your liking. Once you have your strips, you can add a bevel to the inside edge. This is an optional detail, but it can add a nice touch of sophistication to the frame. You can cut the bevel on the table saw by tilting the blade to a 45-degree angle. After the strips are prepared, you will need to cut them to length with mitered corners. A miter saw is the best tool for this job. You will need to cut two pieces for the top and bottom and two pieces for the sides. Make sure your measurements are precise to ensure a tight fit.

Putting it all Together - Attaching the Frame

Once your frame pieces are cut, it is time to attach them to your artwork. Before you apply any glue, do a dry fit to make sure everything lines up correctly. The mitered corners should meet at a perfect 90-degree angle. If you are happy with the fit, you can proceed with the glue-up. Apply a thin layer of wood glue to the back of the frame pieces and to the edges of the backer board. Carefully place the frame pieces in position and press them firmly against the artwork. You can use clamps to hold the frame in place while the glue dries. If you do not have clamps that are long enough, you can use painter's tape to hold the mitered corners together. Make sure to wipe away any excess glue that squeezes out with a damp cloth. Let the glue dry completely, preferably overnight, before moving on to the next step.

Conclusion

With the frame securely attached, it is time to apply the finishing touches. The first step is to give the frame a light sanding to smooth out any rough spots and to ensure the mitered corners are flush. If there are any gaps in the corners, you can fill them with a small amount of wood filler. Once the filler is dry, you can sand it smooth. Now it is time to paint the frame. The original creator used black paint, which creates a nice contrast with the colorful pixels, but you can choose any color you like. Apply two or three coats of paint, allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next. Once the paint is dry, the final step is to apply a few coats of clear varnish or polyurethane to the entire piece, including the pixels and the frame. This will protect the artwork from dust and moisture and will also give it a beautiful gloss or satin finish. Use a small brush to get into all the nooks and crannies between the pixels. Apply the varnish in a well-ventilated area and let it dry completely.

Your wooden pixel art masterpiece is now complete! The only thing left to do is to add some hardware so you can hang it on the wall. There are a few different options for hanging hardware. You can use D-rings, which are small metal rings that screw into the back of the frame. You can then run a wire between the two D-rings to hang the piece from a nail or a hook. Another option is to use a sawtooth hanger. This is a small metal bracket with a zigzag edge that can be attached to the top center of the back of the frame. Sawtooth hangers are a good choice for smaller, lighter pieces. Whatever hardware you choose, make sure it is rated to hold the weight of your artwork. Use a ruler to make sure you are placing the hardware in the correct position so that the piece will hang straight.

Congratulations on completing your wooden pixel art! You have learned a new set of skills and created a unique piece of art that you can be proud of. But why stop here? The world of pixel art is vast and full of possibilities. You can create a whole series of pieces based on your favorite video game characters. You can experiment with different types of wood and different color palettes. You can even try creating larger and more complex designs. You are no longer limited to a 20x20 grid. Why not try a 32x32 or even a 64x64 grid? The techniques you have learned in this series can be applied to a wide range of projects. You can make pixel art coasters, clocks, or even tabletops. Let your imagination run wild and see what you can create. The only limit is your creativity. Thank you for joining us on this journey, and we hope you continue to explore the wonderful world of wooden pixel art.